Inside Look: Ring Resizing

| 3 min read

Do you have a ring that doesn’t fit just right, but perhaps you’re not sure what resizing entails? Don’t fret! This handy guide shows you every step of the process.

PLAIN BANDS

The simplest rings to resize are plain bands such as wedding rings. Two different techniques are used, depending on whether the ring needs sizing up or down.

Resizing a plain band

SIZING DOWN

If a plain band needs to be made smaller, then it is put in a die slightly smaller than its diameter, with a small portion of the ring resting above the level of the surface. The ring is then pressed firmly, reducing its size. It is then turned over and the process is repeated.

SIZING UP

If a plain band needs enlarging, then a ring stretcher is used. The ring is placed on the tapered shaft and the lever is moved up and down, which increases the diameter of the shaft. The ring is rotated to ensure it is evenly stretched. The ring is then turned over on the shaft, so that it doesn’t end up tapered.

However, stretching is only suitable if the ring only needs resizing one size and if the band is thick enough. If a ring has a thin band, or needs to be changed by more than one size, then the process is the same as a gem-set ring.

GEM-SET RINGS

Gemstone-set rings can’t be stretched out as the settings would lose their shape and the gems would fall out. So, a more complex process is used.

Resizing a gem-set ring

SIZING UP

To size up a gem-set ring, a piece of the same precious metal with the same purity (or greater) than the ring is inserted into the band. First, the ring is cut, then the ends are gently prized apart and the extra piece is soldered into the gap.

The band is then filed smooth, polished and cleaned. Throughout this process, any gemstones must be kept from getting too hot. Every jeweler will have a slightly different technique for doing this, but it usually involves keeping the gemstones submerged in cold water. If the gems are particularly susceptible to heat, then they will be carefully removed for the resizing process.

SIZING DOWN

If a stone-set ring needs sizing down, the band is cut, the ends are gently pushed towards each other and soldered together. Great care must be taken to ensure that the settings remain secure – whereas settings are pushed together when enlarging rings, when reducing the size, they are pulled away from one another. Any loose gems are tightened.

The band is again then filed smooth and polished and the ring is cleaned.

PLATINUM

Platinum has a much higher melting point than gold or silver so it is extremely difficult to solder. For this reason, all platinum pieces are resized using a laser welder.

With every order, you will receive a leaflet detailing how you can send your rings to us. Lorique pieces are resized for free.

Please be aware that resizing can sometimes lead to the loss of your Hallmark or other manufacturer marks.

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