Jewellery Terms

Facets, fineness and fastenings; let us explain all of the technical terms you might come across.

• A

  Adamantine

  Adamantine minerals possess a superlative lustre, which is most notably seen in diamond. Such minerals are transparent or translucent, and have a high refractive index.

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  Adularescence

  The effect of adularescence, is best described as a milky, blue coloured or glow originating from below the surface of the gemstone. Moonstone is a good example of an adularescent stone.

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  Allochromatic

  Allochromatic gemstones bare no colour themselves but contain multiple visible coloured impurities.

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  Allotropic

  Allotropes are different structural modifications of an element, the atoms of the element are bonded together in a different way.

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  • Adamantine
  • Adularescence
  • Allochromatic
  • Allotropic
  • Alloys
  • Alluvial Deposits
  • Anniversary Gemstones
  • Antique Cushion Cut
  • Assay
  • Asscher Cut
  • Asterism
  • Aventurescence

• B

  Baguette Cut

  Baguette cut is a type of cut which can be applied to gemstones to give them a rectangular, geometric style of cut.

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  Bangle

  A bangle is an item of jewellery which circles the wrist to create the appearance of a continuous piece of metal.

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  Bar Setting

  Bar setting is a way in which gemstone can be set within a piece of jewellery to give a particular style or appearance.

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  Barion Cut

  The Barion cut was one of the first mixed cuts, introduced in 1971. It is an octagonal square or rectangle, with a polished and faceted girdle.

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  • Baguette Cut
  • Bangle
  • Bar setting
  • Barion Cut
  • Baroque
  • Beads
  • Beauty
  • Bezel Setting
  • Birefringence
  • Birthstones
  • Bleeding
  • Bracelets and Bangles
  • Breastplate of Aaron
  • Brilliance
  • Brilliant Cut
  • Briolette cut
  • Bronze Age Jewellery
  • Bruting
  • Buff top cut

• C

  Cabochon Cut

  A cabochon cut gemstone has been shaped and polished, rather than cut and facetted so that it appears smooth and rounded.

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  Cameo

  A cameo is a carving on a gemstone which is raised against a background of contrasting colour. They commonly depict people or historical scenes.

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  Campbell R Bridges

  A consultant with Tiffany and Co. and rare gemstone expert heavily involved with the introduction of tsavorite garnet and tanzanite to the wider commercial market.

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  Carat

  A unit of measurement used to assess the weight of gemstones. One carat is the equivalent to one fifth of a gram.

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  • Cabochon cut
  • Cameo
  • Campbell R Bridges
  • Carat
  • Carbuncle
  • Cardinal’s ring
  • Casting
  • Cathedral Setting
  • Cavity
  • Chain
  • Chakras
  • Channel Setting
  • Charms
  • Chatoyancy
  • Checkerboard Cut
  • Chemical Elements
  • Chemical Symbols
  • Choker
  • Christian names and gemstones
  • Chromium
  • Clarity
  • Clarity Grading for Coloured Gems
  • Clarity of Diamonds
  • Clasps
  • Claw Setting
  • Cleavage
  • Cleopatra’s Emeralds
  • Cloudy
  • Cluster Rings
  • Coated Gems
  • Cocktail Rings
  • Colour
  • Colour Change Garnet Feature
  • Colour Change Gems
  • Colour Diamond Enhancements
  • Colour Grading Of Diamonds
  • Colour Saturation
  • Colourless gems
  • Colourless Topaz
  • Compass card cut
  • Concave cut
  • Conflict (Free) Diamonds
  • Created Gems
  • Crown
  • Crown Jewels
  • Crystal Formation
  • Crystal Formation Anomalies
  • Crystal Healing (Lithotherapy)
  • Crystal Systems
  • Cufflinks
  • Culet
  • Cullinan replica cut
  • Cupio cut
  • Cushion Cut
  • Cut
  • Cutting

• D

  Density

  Density is a measurement of mass per unit volume of a substance. The density of a material varies depending on temperature and pressure.

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  Diaphaneity

  The word diaphaneity refers to the transparency or translucency of a gemstone and references the amount of light that passes through a gemstone.

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  Dichroic

  When you can see two colours emitted from different angles of a gemstone the effect is caused by dichroism.

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  Diffusion

  Diffusion is a method commonly used in the production of gemstone jewellery, used to apply or enhance the colour.

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  • Density
  • Diamond Tester
  • Diaphaneity
  • Dichroic
  • Dichroscope
  • Diffusion
  • Dispersion
  • Doublet
  • Durability
  • Dyed Gems

• E

  Earrings

  A popular item of jewellery used to adorn the ears and available in a variety of designs, including studs, hoops and drop styles.

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  Edwardian Era

  A definitive style in terms of jewellery design, between 1901%201901, jewellery styles became more delicate and began to feature dainty diamond designs.

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  Eight Cut

  Also known as the "Single Cut", an eight cut is a variation of the brilliant cut and is often used on diamonds under .05ct.

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  Emerald Cut

  As the name suggests, this shape and cut was first used on Emeralds but is now widely used on a number of different gemstones.

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  • Earrings
  • Edwardian Era (1901 - 1910)
  • Eight Cut
  • Emerald Cut
  • Engagement Ring
  • EPG
  • Eternity Ring
  • Evaluating Sapphires
  • Extender Chain
  • Extinction

• F

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  Facets

  The tiny cuts on the surface of a gemstone which are positioned to allow maximum light reflection and refraction within the gemstone.

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  Fancy Cut

  One of the most skillful art forms on the planet is the creation of a fancy cut gem.

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  Fibrous

  Fibrous gemstones are those which are said to have a cloth like appearance- Kyanite is a good example of this.

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  • Fabergé
  • Facets
  • Fancy Cut
  • Fibrous
  • Figural Jewellery
  • Filigree
  • Findings
  • Fineness
  • Fire (Dispersion)
  • Flaw
  • Flower Cut
  • Fluorescence
  • Foil Backed

• G

  Gallery

  This word is used in jewellery to describe the portion of a ring where a single gemstone or collection of gemstones sit.

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  Gamut Point

  The gamut point is a term used within the jewellery industry to describe the part within a gemstone where optimum colour occurs.

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  Gem Families

  The different types of gemstone groups to which a gemstone belongs. For example morganite belongs to the beryl family.

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  Gem Sorting

  The process of examining rough, loose stones to determine which are semi-precious or precious stones.

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  • Gallery
  • Gamut Point
  • Gem families
  • Gem Sorting
  • Gemstone Formation
  • Gemstone Mining
  • Gemstones
  • Geodes
  • Georgian Era
  • Girdle
  • Glenn Lehrer
  • Glyptography
  • Gold
  • Green gems and Associations
  • Gypsy Setting

• H

  Hallmark Symbols

  A hallmark symbol is given to an item of jewellery when it is made using precious metal and will differ depending on the type of metal and the location it was hallmarked.

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  Hardness

  Measured using the Mohs scale, the closer to ten the gemstone is on the scale, the harder and therefore more durable it will be.

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  • Hallmark Symbols
  • Hallmarking - A History
  • Hand made chains
  • Hardness
  • Harlequin Ring
  • Heart Cut
  • Heart in Heart Cut
  • Heat treatment
  • Hexagon cut
  • Hue
  • Hydrostatic Scale

• I

  Idiochromatic

  Idiochromatic is a term applied to minerals that are self coloured, meaning the element causing its colour is an essential part in its composition.

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  Igneous Rocks

  From the Latin word for fire "ignis", igneous rocks are formed by the solidification of cooled magma (molten rock), with or without crystallisation.

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  Illusion Setting

  A very clever setting, particularly popular with pieces of diamond jewellery, the stone is set in to make it appear larger than it really is.

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  Imitation Gemstones

  Most often pieces of coloured glass or crystal, imitation gemstones never hold the fire, brilliance or refraction qualities of a true gemstone.

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  • Idiochromatic
  • Igneous Rocks
  • Illusion Setting
  • Imitation gemstones
  • Inclusions
  • Invisible Setting
  • Iridescence
  • Isomorphic
  • Italian Jewellery

• J

  Jewellery

  The overarching term for rings, necklaces, pendants, earrings, bracelets and many other beautiful items of adornment made with precious metals and genuine gemstones.

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  • Jewellery

• K

  Koh-I-Nur Replica

  The famous Koh-i-Nur Diamond was supposedly cut from 739 carats to 105 carats in its present state.

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  • Kimberlite
  • Koh-I-Nur replica cut

• L

  Labradorescence

  Labradorescence is a side-effect of the molecular change which occurs in large crystal masses of anorthosite, producing an iridescent play of colours.

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  Lapidarist

  Lapidarists are the skilled artisans who cut, facet and polish each gemstone used in each beautiful piece of gemstone jewellery.

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  Laps

  A lap is a horizontal rotating disc that lapidarists use to facet and polish gemstones. In most cutting houses across Asia, lapidarists choose to sit on the floor and the "lap" is literally spinning in their lap.

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  Locket

  An item of jewellery, normally a hinged pendant in silver or gold, used for stowing keepsakes and photographs.

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  • Labradorescence
  • Lapidarist
  • Laps
  • Locket
  • Loupe
  • Lustre

• M

  Mabe Pearl

  Mabe Pearls are quite different from what you might consider normal pearls because of the way that they are made.

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  Malleable

  Certain precious metals are more malleable than others, meaning they are more likely to bend and get mis-shapen. Silver is a particularly malleable metal.

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  Marquise Cut

  Marquise cut stones are those which are shaped like an elongated eye. It is a more unusual cut of gemstone which is traditionally used in solitaire rings.

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  Master Model Making

  When more than one piece of identical jewellery needs to be made, the first step is to produce a master model.

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  • Mabe Pearl
  • Malleable
  • Marquise Cut
  • Master Model Making
  • Melée
  • Melee Diamond Grading
  • Millennium Cut
  • Minerals
  • Misnomers
  • Mohs Scale
  • Moulds
  • Mounting

• N

  Nacre

  When a mollusc or an oyster experiences an intrusion from a foreign body such as a piece of shell or a grain of sand, it covers itself in a layer of nacre.

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  • Nacre

• O

  Octagon Cut

  An octagon cut and an emerald cut can sometimes be very difficult to tell apart owing to the geometric style of their cuts.

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  Opalescence

  Similar to iridescence, opalescence is an effect seen in some gemstones, primarily Opals (hence its name) which causes the gem to exhibit a shimmer of different colours.

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  Opaque

  A term used to describe items which are solid in colour and have no see through parts or translucency to them.

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  Organic Gemstones

  Organic gemstones are those which are formed from plant or animal life, rather than the mineral composition that forms other gemstones.

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  • Octagon Cut
  • Opalescence
  • Opaque
  • Organic gemstones
  • Orient
  • Origin
  • Oval Cut

• P

  Palladium

  A precious metal with similar properties to platinum, often used in men's jewellery for its silver colouring and hard wearing nature.

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  Pave Setting

  A type of setting, particularly popular with diamond set pieces, including engagement rings where small stones are set next to each other to create a glittering appearance.

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  Pavilion

  An important part within the gemstone's cut, the pavilion refers to the angles of facets and determines the way light travels through the stone.

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  Pear Cut

  A popular shape amongst larger gemstone pieces, as the name suggests, the jewellery is cut so that it is shaped like a pear.

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  • Palladium
  • Pave Setting
  • Pavilion
  • Pear Cut
  • Pendants
  • Phosphorescence
  • Pin Setting
  • Pique Diamond
  • Platinum
  • Play of Colour
  • Pleochroism
  • Polymorphic
  • Precious Gemstones
  • Princess Cut
  • Promise Ring
  • Pseudochromatic

• Q

  • Quartz
  • Quenched Crackle

• R

  Radiant Cut

  A radiant cut stone has 70 facets and is quite similar to the princess cut in terms of its shape. Diamonds are popular stones to apply the radiant cut to.

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  Rarity

  The overall term used to describe how rare a gemstone might be.

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  Refractive Index

  A term used to describe the way in which light travels through a particular substance, in our case- gemstones.

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  Rhodium

  A white metal used as an alloy to gold to whiten the metal. Rhodium is also used to plate white gold jewellery and give it an extra white appearance.

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  • Radiant Cut
  • Rarity
  • Refractive index
  • Rhodium
  • Ring Sizes
  • Rings
  • Rocks
  • Roman Jewellery
  • Rose Gold
  • Rutile

• S

  Saturation

  Colours are comprised of three things: Hue, tone and saturation. Saturation, also referred to as colour purity, describes the pureness of the hue: its vividness and intensity.

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  Sautoir

  Derived from the French word to chain, sautoir is the name given to a long necklace.

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  Schiller

  A term used to describe the iridescent-type lustre in gems such as labradorite, where layers of inclusions provide a bronze-like lustre.

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  Scintillation

  Very similar to lustre and brilliance, scintillation is used to describe the optical effect seen in gems such as Diamonds.

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  • Saturation
  • Sautoir
  • Schiller
  • Scintillation
  • Scintillator Brilliant cut
  • Scribbling Ring
  • Semi Precious
  • Setting
  • Shank
  • Shapes
  • Sheen
  • Shoulder
  • Signet Ring
  • Silver
  • Sleeper
  • Square Cut
  • Stabilised Gems
  • Star Facet
  • Step Cut
  • Sterling Silver

• T

  Table

  The table is the single top facet of a gem (when viewed from the side) and is sometimes referred to as the window of the gem.

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  Talisman

  A lucky charm carried by some to protect them and bring all manner of good things. More often than not, talismans tend to be an item of jewellery.

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  Tapered Cut

  Also known as tapered baguettes, these cuts work extremely well on the shoulders of rings, where their shape naturally draws the eye towards the centre of the gemstone.

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  Tarnishing

  The process of discolouration which can occur when an item of jewellery has been exposed to water, oils or perfume in particular.

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  • Table
  • Talisman
  • Tanzanite Gemstone
  • Tapered Cut
  • Tarnishing
  • Taylor - Burton Diamond
  • Tennis Bracelet
  • Tension Set
  • The Lone Star cut
  • Tiara
  • Tiffany Setting
  • Titanium
  • Tone
  • Toughness
  • Transparency
  • Treatments
  • Trilliant Cut
  • Troy Ounce
  • Tumbled Gemstones

• V

  Valentine Heart Cut

  Slightly rounder than a traditional heart cut, with a height that is approximately 20% more than its width, the Valentine Cut is a very romantic cut.

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  Valuations

  The process of assessing an item of jewellery to give it a formal valuation, particular useful for heirloom pieces or for insurance purposes.

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  Vermeil

  A term applied to a particular hard wearing type of gold plating- sterling silver is given a 2 micron thickness coating of gold making it particularly durable.

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  Vitreous Lustre

  This term is used to describe a gem that has a lustre similar to that of glass.

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  • Valentine Heart Cut
  • Valuations
  • Vermeil
  • Vitreous Lustre

• W

  Watches

  Timepieces worn on the wrist in many cultures for many years, they keep everything running smoothly and punctually.

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  Wedding Rings

  A simple band worn on the fourth finger of either the left or right hand, depending on country and culture, to symbolise that a person is married.

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  • Watches
  • Wedding Rings
  • White Gold

• Y

  Yield

  The yield is a term used to refer to the amount of cut gemstones that can be found within a rough stone.

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  • Yield

• Z

  Zinnia Cut

  A specialist cut created by Gabi Tolkowsky with 25 facets on the crown and 48 facets on the pavilion.

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  Zodiac Gemstones

  Also known as Astral Stones, each sign of the zodiac is associated with different gemstones.

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  Zoning

  The term zoning refers to gemstones with uneven colour saturation within them. A heavily zoned gemstone may be very light or dark in parts.

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  • Zinnia Cut
  • Zodiac Gemstones
  • Zoning (Colour Banding)