There are still five or six countries
that I would love to travel to in
order to tell the story of the people
and their gemstones. But as you can
imagine, our adventures to-date have been
in the easier to reach countries, in safer
places, or those with governments that are
happy to grant filming licenses.
I had been desperate to film in Ethiopia for many years.
Over the past ten years I have visited all the other east coast
African countries and have become fascinated by both their
culture and love for nature’s gems. Through South Africa
into Mozambique, Tanzania and Kenya, I have always been
greeted with incredible warmth and friendliness; with huge
smiles that seem to mask the hardship that many of these
communities face. Intriguingly, even in these distant lands,
Mother Nature never buried her treasures near the bigger
cities and towns, but always in the most remote of locations.
It’s as if she sprinkled her treasure in areas where they could
only be discovered by farmers, goat herders and nomadic
travelers. Maybe in an attempt to spread wealth to the
furthest corners of the planet, Mother Nature inadvertently
made her gems extremely difficult for us gem explorers to
visit and to tell the story. But we all have a purpose in life
and I believe one of mine is to travel to these distant and
often inhospitable sources and share the true story of the
gem and its people.
I have always been
greeted with incredible warmth and friendliness; with huge
smiles that seem to mask the hardship that many of these
communities face.
Over the past four years we had made numerous attempts to
get official filming permits from the Ethiopian government.
On many occasions promises got broken and last October
when we were told a permit had been granted, I booked
my flights only to find, days before departing, that there
had been a hitch and we would have to either fly without
a permit and hope to get one when we landed, or delay
our flights. With my newborn son only two months old, I
decided I was not in a position to waste days in a country arguing with officials, so I asked the airline to move my tickets to a date in the future. I had totally forgotten about the rescheduled flights when my assistant Barry walked into my office on the 6th of March and told me everything was sorted. The filming rights had been granted and I was to fly in four days’ time. The only slight issue was that my original Ethiopian Business Visa had elapsed and we would have to apply to the Embassy in London to get one couriered to us. The visa finally arrived on the 10th and we flew out on the 11th. The only other drama was at the airport. I went to open the boot of my car and the catch would not release.
All of our camera equipment was in the boot, without which the visit would be a disaster. My car is eleven years old and whilst the engine is sound, the electrics are failing and the computer (no matter how many times I flicked the switch!) would not release the boot. Eventually in a panic I jumped up and down on the boot whilst my cameraman Michael repeatedly flicked the switch. Just as I was about to give up, the catch gave way; we extracted the cameras and ran to
the terminal.
We touched down just as the sun was rising
on a hot and sunny spring morning. The
airport in the capital city Addis Ababa is
extremely modern and looks a little out of
place in its surroundings. Having said that, it
is nothing compared to Mumbai’s new multibillion
dollar airport, where the contrast of
the world’s inequality is shockingly visible for
all to see, since on touchdown you realize
the majority of the runway perimeter
is surrounded by slums.
We cleared customs and entered the arrivals
lounge looking for the traditional handmade
whiteboard with our names on them, but the
lounge was deserted. As it was early morning,
I decided to grab a coffee and just wait. I
pulled out my travel documents and reread
the itinerary. In all of the last minute panic
planning back in the UK, I hadn’t even got
a phone number for our Ethiopian contacts.
I circled the arrivals lounge several times
becoming increasingly concerned that maybe
we hadn’t organized everything properly when my actions caught the eye of a security guard. He laughed when I told him I might be stranded and he then explained that nobody is allowed into the terminal from outside and that I would most likely find who I was looking for in the car park outside. We eventually found Abay, who was going to escort us to the mines. Abay is a driver by trade, but is really passionate about gemstones, particularly Ethiopian Opals. We would also be traveling with Hailu, who worked for the government as a Geologist.
Back in the UK it was impossible to get hold of any Ethiopian currency and as it was so early, none of the Exchange desks at the airport were open. Luckily the banks in the capital opened at 8am, so we dropped into one just before we left the city. Hailu explained that I would need to pay cash for everything during our trip and that it was unlikely over the next five days that we would be able to pay by credit card anywhere. So we estimated I would need around 2000 American dollars’ worth of local currency, so duly handed over the cash to the bank teller and to my surprise a tower of notes some ten inches high was returned.
About ten minutes after getting the mountain of currency, Hailu got a call from the bank and was told that they hadn’t checked the new exchange rate for the day and that there was an error and we needed to return. So we duly turned round the car and went back. To my amazement, it wasn’t that we hadn’t paid enough, but the exchange rate had shifted in our favor and the bank owed us another $17! This really made me smile. It was a degree of honesty that few in the West would envisage of Africa, but in my experience over the years, this is the real African culture. I laughed with the team about how the cost of the lost hour at the bank was far more than $17, but how delighted I was that it had happened. It had put me completely at ease with my journey and had released a little of the tension you always feel when traveling in an unknown country. Especially after the day before I set off, my accountant John Winspear had come into my office and pleaded with me not to go, as the province of Wollo that the mine was situated in was (according to our insurers) deemed not safe for foreign travel.
It was a degree of honesty that few in the West would envisage of Africa, but in my experience over the years, this is the real African culture.
As we drove I asked Abay to tell me a little about the capital Addis Ababa. He explained how its name meant “new flower”, how the city’s population in recent years had rapidly grown to over five million people and how the lifestyle in the city was in stark contrast with the rest of the country. I then asked Hailu about his government office and was surprised to learn that in a country that has over 100 million inhabitants, the government – whilst it had several geologists – didn’t employ a single gemologist. Any GIA graduates reading this, there is a real opening here! Whilst today in the West we know only of the wonderful Ethiopian Opals, I leaned as we drove that there are also Sapphires, Aquamarines and a discovery of some one hundred million year old natural green Amber. Sadly all of these are currently being exported to China; but I made a note as later in the week I would be meeting my export contact Yonus.
Next Abay told me all about the local discovery of the oldest human on the planet. He explained in great detail about the discovery. “Do you know why in 1974 they named the fossilized remains Lucy?”, Abay asked. I confessed that I didn’t. He explained that whilst the Archaeologists were digging, the airwaves of the radio were repeatedly playing “Lucy in the sky with Diamonds”. The discovery dated the beginning of mankind to 3.3 million years ago. A few years later a second discovery led to the more precise dating of 3.6 million years ago.
Earlier in the bank, I heard Hailu deliver an extremely long
word, or a string of words, that seemed to represent a thank
you. He told me that the Amharic (the Ethiopian national
language) was ameseginalehu, which is pronounced amasir-
gurnar-low. This was going to take some getting used to!
Whilst there is a national language, in such a diverse country,
with so many different cultures, different terrains and ways of
life, there were now over eighty recognized languages.
In such a diverse country,
with so many different cultures, different terrains and ways of
life, there were now over eighty recognized languages.
The seasons in Ethiopia are the same as in Europe and
America. Whilst to the East of Ethiopia there is the Danakil
Desert which sits below sea level and is possibly the hottest
terrain on the planet, we were traveling in the middle
of the country and on this Spring morning in March
the temperature was pleasantly in the late twenties. Ten
minutes or so out of the city and we were in the rolling
green countryside. Here nature’s landscape was extremely
beautiful, but within earshot of the sprawling city, the way
of life for its rural inhabitants was extremely different. Gone
were the tower blocks, glass windows, street lights, hot and
cold tap water; in no distance at all they were replaced by
mud huts, communal water wells and open windows.
Literally every mile or two along the road we would pass
by a settlement and everyone shared strikingly similar
characteristics. There seemed to always be someone
ploughing a field, not with a modern tractor, but by two cows
pulling a wooden plough. There was always at least one or
two ladies carrying bales of firewood on their heads and for
entertainment it appeared as if each settlement had at least
one table football either under a tarpaulin cover or in an
open sided small shack. There always seemed to be a small
boy of four or five years old herding half a dozen goats,
whilst other young children sat on the step of their homes
frantically waving at these two strange white characters
hanging out of a car window with their strange camera
equipment. There would always be children carrying bright
yellow containers of water in each hand, or some leading a
donkey with up to a dozen containers tied to its back.
In every settlement there were many donkeys
and Abay explained that other than China,
Ethiopia has the world’s largest number of
donkeys.
In every settlement there were many donkeys
and Abay explained that other than China,
Ethiopia has the world’s largest number of
donkeys. And when it comes to donkeys per
square mile, not even China comes close.
“Whilst I am boasting about our donkeys, we
also have more cattle than any other country
in Africa,” Abay told me.
I asked Abay “With so many donkeys, why
is there a need for children to carry the
heavy water containers and ladies to have
to carry so much firewood?” He explained
that you couldn’t just claim a wild donkey
you had to buy it from the government.
Each donkey cost $100 (£60) and that was a
huge amount for these rural settlers. Even if
you could afford it, you would also have to
make sure you could feed it and that would
take extra land and more time maintaining
it. I explained to Abay that I have spent
much time over the years with the Maasai of
Kenya and Tanzania and had expected these
remote areas of Ethiopia to be similarly
nomadic. Abay explained that in the south
of Ethiopia, the Hamar tribe were similar
to the Maasai and constantly travelled with
their cattle from area to area, but here in
middle of the country, everyone tended to
settle.
As we drove further north, there was a
new addition to the settlements – camels!
Hundreds of them! In these communities,
the lighter loads such as sacks of grain,
firewood and water were being carried
by the donkeys, whilst the heavier loads
for constructing dwellings or fences were
either being carried or towed by camels.
Interestingly, every settlement had horses
too, but during the entire drive, I never
once saw them working or being ridden.
We must have passed through two to three
hundred settlements on our drive. Without
exception, none had what you or I would
class as a shop, none had a single pane of glass in their windows or a car or motorbike on a driveway. All of the water for washing and drinking was collected from wells or streams and was carried to the home. While you or I might desperately spend two minutes in a supermarket car park, driving endlessly around and around battling for a parking space as close to the entrance as possible, everything that is consumed here in rural Ethiopia is grown in the community and then carried to the home by donkey or on foot.
After twelve hours on the road, we decided to spend the night in a small town called Dessie. This, as it turns out, was a great place to split up the journey. All of the first day was spent driving on a well constructed road built by the government and tomorrow, the second we left the town, we would immediately hit a gravel and dirt track for seventy miles to the Opal mines of Wegeltena.
Before sunrise, we crept out of bed and jumped into our 4x4 and set off continuing in a northerly direction. The first thing that struck me was that there was a chill in the air. Abay explained that Dessie was located well above sea level and that especially in December and January it could get very cold here. But as the sun began to rise I could see we were again passing lots of remote settlements with houses that looked more like the tree houses we might build for our kids, rather than somewhere to live in during these cold months. I asked Abay, “How do people keep warm?” He simply replied “They don’t, it’s damn cold at night”.
Today’s journey would follow the floor of the Ziya Valley for over thirty miles, and then we would twist and turn around several mountains before eventually climbing a dirt/gravel road to an altitude of over 3000 meters to reach Wegeltena.
During the entire drive, we were following the course of a new road construction. This road was being built by the Ethiopian government, with the aid of a huge Chinese company, and would stretch over 90 miles north of Dessie. This construction was the biggest project I have ever witnessed. As we drove,meters the old gravel track we were traveling on repeatedly crossed backwards and forwards over the unopened new construction. The old road was in the bottom of the valley and during the rainy season in June, July and August, it was completely covered by a river. The new
road was being built on higher ground so that the northern region was not cut off for an entire season.
Abay asked Michael and I if we were enjoying our African massage. It certainly felt like one and by the time we arrived at Wegeltena I felt as if I had just spent three hours in a boxing ring. But let me backtrack to the ascent of the mountain. As you leave the riverbed on the valley floor, you start to ascend one of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet. It’s a cross between the Grand Canyon and the Swiss Alps in the summer.
By the time we arrived at Wegeltena I felt as if I had just spent three hours in a boxing ring.
The only difference is you are about to travel 14 miles up a continuous ascent, on a gravelly road, constantly on a cliff edge without any safety barriers. Now I might be known for my adventures in Africa, for walking to the North Pole and sailing a small boat across the Atlantic, but one thing that I don’t like is heights and being close to an edge with a vertical drop scared the living daylights out of me!
The road was so
treacherous and broken
in places that the ascent
took almost an hour. As we
turned the last corner at the
very top, the road flattened
and in front of us was the most
magical and unusual geological
scene I had ever witnessed.
Unlike the peaks of Mont Blanc, Everest
and Kilimanjaro, here the tip flattened out
into a ridge. The ridge varies from 200 to
400 yards wide in places and is around two
miles long. It is just surreal. As we drove, we
saw dozens and dozens of families walking
in the same direction on their way to the
Saturday market. I struggled to take it all
in. We had just climbed 3000 meters (that’s
higher than most of the mountains in the
Alps) and at 3000 meters in Europe there
is snow on the ground all year round. But
here, the daytime temperature is still in the
20s and we were about to arrive at a village
of over 7000 inhabitants, all living at more
than 3000 meters! It's just incredible. As
if life couldn’t get any stranger, I looked
out of the car window and saw hundreds
of baboons sitting on the edge of the cliff,
looking out and admiring the view across
the valley. It almost felt like they were
saying to me, “This is the best view on the
planet – and we love Opals too.”
We had just driven for one and a half days
and been bumped, shaken and at times
almost scared to death. But as we entered
Wegeltena, all of that was instantly forgotten
and the excitement of arriving at a place I
had longed to visit kicked in. The settlement
in appearance was like all the others we had
driven through during the preceding two
days, but on arrival I immediately noticed
something different. Here there were many
motorbikes, a few cars and lots of people
on mobile phones. There were still no glass
windows, but everywhere I looked the main
street was full of smiles and an atmosphere
of prosperity and adventure.
We stopped at the government's mining
office, which was little more than a nicely
painted shack. Here, we were introduced to
Berhun, the Mining Officer for the town. I
have met a lot of mining officials over the
years, but Berhun
was so different.
His smile
extended from
ear to ear, he
was delighted to
welcome us and
was constantly
thanking us for
traveling all
this way to tell
the story of the
Wegeltena people
and their magical
discovery. Berhun
jumped into his
4x4 and sped off
to the local police station, where he went
to get an armed guard to accompany us.
I tried to tell him at length that I felt this
was absolutely not necessary, but he insisted and said that because security was so tight
and many of the miners would never have
seen Europeans before (not to mention how
unusual it would be for there to be camera
crew documenting everything) he thought
it was best to play safe, so we reluctantly
conceded this disagreement. He had also
been informed that we were bringing with
us a drone (a kind of small helicopter with a
camera attached to it that we use for aerial
shots) and he was worried that people might
climb aboard! Something obviously had
been lost in translation at this point, as the
drone fits into a family sized suitcase!
Berhun
jumped into his
4x4 and sped off
to the local police station, where he went
to get an armed guard to accompany us.
So we picked up the policeman, armed
with an AK-47 and a smile that could win
a national award. He was so lovely and
kind, and he spoke broken English that he
had taught himself at home. I asked him
his name, but I couldn’t quite understand
it, so instead I started referring to him as
Policeman, which he seemed to really like.
We set off for the mine but within moments
again we had come to a stop. Policeman
jumped out and went into a painted bright
blue home and shortly after came back out
with two young men. He opened up the
back of the 4x4 and they jumped in. I asked
Policeman if we were just giving them a
lift, but he laughed and explained that as
the walk was going to be around two hours,
he had asked them to come along and
carry our camera equipment for us. This
incredible act of thoughtfulness made me
feel like a real adventurer!
I had waited for
years to come to this mine, was I really
going to let my small fear of heights
(especially on cliff edges) get the better of
me?
In the now very crowded 4x4, with four
of us and an AK-47 squeezed on the back
seat and our two porters sitting on all
our camera equipment in the boot, we
travelled out of the village for about one
mile and descended around 400 meters.
We parked up our vehicle, literally fell out
of the doors and set off on foot. We first
walked through a wooded area where the
trees protected us from the now searing
heat, and arrived at the cliff edge. I asked
if we could stop so that I could take some
photos, but really this was a cover-up so
I could calm my nerves. I had waited for
years to come to this mine, was I really
going to let my small fear of heights
(especially on cliff edges) get the better of
me? I started to get the feeling that Hailu
was on to my weakness and had cottoned
on as to why I had stood there almost
motionless for a few minutes. So in fear of
being uncovered I began to slowly put one
foot in front of the other and carry on.
My cameraman Michael then decided he
wanted to film me walking along the ridge
and descending down a small rock face.
As his camera started to roll, he stepped
backwards, lost his footing and went head
over heels. I was so worried about him,
but he soon stood back up and shouted,
“Don’t worry, I'm still filming!” Tragedy
averted, I now felt more at ease and the rest
of the walk went without incident. Well,
other than it was now baking hot and the
thin air at this high altitude was starting
to burn us both. I had also accidentally left
the sun cream in the 4x4. After about an
hour we arrived at the depleted main seam,
which was mined for around 10 years. I
had studied, in great detail, the only two
photographs of the Opal mining area that
have been widely circulated, so the rock face
looked very familiar to me. But the photos (that I am sure many reading this may have
seen on our TV shows) were taken from
across the valley and did not tell the whole
story. In the trade we had learned all our
information about the Wegeltena deposit
third hand. As far as I am a ware, nobody
before had come to Wegeltena to meet the
people and tell their story.
In the trade, we have always believed that
the gem-bearing seam was one meter
high and only a few meters deep. Whilst
it is true that the seam is only one meter
in height, many of the mines go up to
100 meters deep into the mountain. Now
that’s really impressive. Why? Well, they
don’t use any explosives and when you
come out of the mining shaft, within a
couple of meters you are on the cliff edge.
One misplaced footing here and there’s
a vertical drop so high that you would
certainly meet the maker of our gemstones
if you fell.
As he was so excited to show us the new
mining area to the west of the old deposit,
Berhun tried to hurry us along. Whilst
Michael and I continued to take the odd
photograph, we were moving along quite
slowly so as to be sure not to lose our
balance. The policeman and the porters
were taking it in turns carrying our camera
equipment and even with the extra load
they seemed twice as quick as us and
almost oblivious to the sheer drop we were
walking along. I guess if you have lived on
a plateau, with vertical drops all around
you for your entire life, you probably don’t
even think about them.
Eventually, with our backs to the wall, we
traversed around a steep and narrow corner.
I had one eye looking down to the valley
floor some 3000 meters below us, and with
the other eye I spotted a nearby hive of
activity. We sat down, took a deep breath,
and through Hailu’s translation started to fire
question after question at several artisanal
miners, all of whom were bemused to see
two severely sunburned foreigners yielding
weird looking objects for their documentary.
After an hour or so of making lots of
acquaintances and venturing deep into
several mine shafts, I leaned to Michael and
said, “Come on let's get the drone in the sky.”
As soon as he opened up the suitcase
carrying our small helicopter, virtually the
entire mining community came to a halt and
a large group of intrigued gem explorers
encircled Michael as he started to rev up
the propeller blades. As it took off from the
ground, rising from the middle of a group of
excited locals, the roar of laughter and look
of astonishment on everyone’s face was one
of the most wonderful shared experiences I
have ever had. As the drone rose high into
the sky, everyone was jumping up and down
with uncontrollable excitement and not a
single miner took their eyes off the drone
for the entire 10 minutes it was flying in the
sky. Even the two donkeys on the cliff edge
seemed to gaze in disbelief !
After landing the drone, any remaining
unease in the atmosphere seemed to
completely evaporate and we no longer felt
like strangers. Miners were literally begging
us to come into their small tunnels to see what gems they had unearthed. Even Policeman relaxed
and propped his AK-47 up against a rock. Berhun seemed
really delighted that everything had gone so smoothly too.
What did we discover? Firstly, the people of Wegeltena love
their Opals. This love affair seems to run deeper than the
wealth it has ultimately brought to their community. Up
here the altitude makes the air thin, but the air is full of
joyful optimism. Of the hundreds of settlements we had
driven through to get here, Wegeltena felt different. The
Opals here seem to have spread hope, happiness and above
all, heart.
Wegeltena felt different. The
Opals here seem to have spread hope, happiness and above
all, heart.
One miner insisted I called him Rooney. I am sure that
was not his real name, as the village, with their new
satellite dishes on many bars, seems to be obsessed with
the English Premiership. I thought to myself that he is
most likely a (very) remote Manchester United fan. Rooney
began to tell me about mining the Opals. He explained
how in the beginning, to avoid the three hour walk down
the main road from the village and then onwards on the
descending route which we had just done, he and many of
his friends would instead abseil down the cliff face early in
the morning. They would then work all day and walk back
in the evening. But, with a knowing glance at Berhun, he
told us the authorities eventually stopped them from doing
that. “Several of my friends now have cars, so we drive to
where you got out of your car and we walk the same path
every day," he said. I explained to Rooney that I was once
told that miners drove four hours to get to the mine every
day, but Rooney explained, “Maybe that’s because nobody
had visited the plateau before and did not know about
Wegeltena, so maybe they thought the miners travelled
daily from Dessie”.
Let me explain the current mining operation. On the
far side of the mountain, which we did not visit, they’re
effectively mining the opposite side of the same gem
bearing seam. Apparently, this is a similar sized operation, but the play of color is said to be not quite as impressive
as that which is coming out of the face at which we were
stood. Plus, sadly, they believe there is still a lot of illegal
mining activity on that side. I did ask if we could visit
there, but Hailu said, “Steve, you really struggled to get
to this site. No disrespect, but you just couldn’t get down
the other side.” That was enough for me! If this was the
better Opal, then I was more interested to stay on this
side and to tell the story of this amazing group of men.
Rooney explained how they all worked as a co-operative.
They divided into small teams of about five to six people
and each team worked a different mine shaft. The shafts all
ran horizontally into the mountain and I was told they all
varied between 100 and 200 meters in length.
Steve, it’s like this. In the West
you have watches, but here in Ethiopia we have time.
I asked what an arm was. Hailu explained to me what
Rooney was trying to say. “Steve, it’s like this. In the West
you have watches, but here in Ethiopia we have time.
Likewise we don’t measure distance in meters, any such
measurement means nothing. When we are mining we
measure in arms. Interestingly, from the tip of the finger
to the elbow, that’s about half a meter. So when Rooney
says two arms, he means one meter. If he says he has now
mined a tunnel 200 arms long, it is about 100 meters. They
also have no clue about carats, grams and kilos, so ask him
how much he has found this week,” Hailu said. So I did,
and Rooney cupped his hands to explain that he had found
a handful of pieces that, as they looked very beautiful,
would fetch a good price, and that five pieces were sent
by God, and that he would make extremely good money
from them. He went on to show me a few pieces that, even
in this rough state straight out of the ground, I knew were
pieces that in five or six months’ time would most likely be
cut by one of my lapidarist teams in Jaipur.
In all I counted 80 to 90 artisanal miners in the cooperative.
It would have been impossible to count this if it
wasn’t for our filming with the drone. For that 10 minute
period, everyone was outside of their tunnels watching this very novel event. Rooney later explained that other than
birds, he had never seen anything else fly in the sky.
When the miners divide themselves into small teams of
five or six, they take it in turns to do the three main mining
tasks. The first, with a small hammer and a pick, will
work on chipping away at the rock face looking for Opals,
whilst at the same time extending the tunnel further into
the mountain. He does this under torchlight, all the time
diligently searching for any sign of Opal. The next task is
to take the rubble back out of the tunnel. This is done by
putting big yellow containers on their sides and slicing them
in half. The halves then act as a bucket and the miner will
drag them out of the tunnel. At the tunnel face, the third
separate task would be to search through the rubble to see
if the sunlight reveals any more pieces that the miner may
have missed at the rock face. The tunnels are really tiny
though. At most they are a meter high. I asked Rooney
why they didn’t make them higher and he told me in no
uncertain words that it would be a waste of energy and
time. He explained that the height was exactly the same
height as the Opal seam.
I wanted to find out what the miners truly thought of the
Opal, and if there was any spiritual connection between
them and this treasure of nature. Rooney explained that
the Opal was from God. It had transformed his family
life. He said it was hard work and on some days when he
found nothing, it could be soul destroying. But every day he
started out hopeful that today will be the day he finds the
finest piece of his life. That hope, he explained, made his
life truly exciting. He loved Opal, he loved his community
and Rooney thanked us repeatedly for bringing the
gemstone to others.
All over Africa, in every remote gem mining village,
you can see the effect that the discovery has had on the
community. These communities are always those in the
most inhospitable areas of all. Here at Wegeltena, they are
on a remote plateau 3000 meters above sea level. On top
of this, Policeman explained to me that the village is not
just about gemstones, people up here also find the altitude
very fresh and extremely spiritual. Another thing I always
observe in these communities is, as Rooney says, hope.
The village is not
just about gemstones, people up here also find the altitude
very fresh and extremely spiritual.
One of the problems for other rural communities in Africa
is that it's almost impossible for them to dream. It must
seem like there’s no way out of their lifestyle of subsistence
farming. If the entire family is not attending to livestock,
working the fields and fetching water, how can they
survive? Breaking that never-ending circle of daily survival
is why the West, over the last 20 or so generations, has
developed at a rapid pace, whilst in rural settlements of
Africa, life is little different to the way we all lived 1000
years ago in England.
In gem mining communities, the wealth from the gems is
a life changer. All of a sudden, a portion of the village is
not focusing on subsistence farming for survival, but on
creating wealth instead. This not only generates funds for
themselves, but at the same time means someone else can
open a store to sell goods to those involved with the gems,
hence also moving their families away from subsistence
farming and so on and so on.
Two days later, back in the capital Addis Ababa, I met back
up with Yonus, who is a licensed exporter for Opal. As
with all developing countries, I need someone like Yonus
in every one as governments are constantly changing the
laws on both exporting and taxes. One of the things that
the Ethiopian government have done is to keep changing
the rules on the export of gemstone rough. Quite rightly,
they believe if the export is banned and the gems are cut
in Ethiopia, more of the wealth stays in Ethiopia, and I
applaud them for this. In fact, my good friend Yianni Melas
and I are always working with governments to help them
set up in-country cutting. Yianni has named it the CATS
project, which stands for Cut At The Source. Whilst we completely support gems being cut at the
source, it should only ever become law once
there is sufficient capacity of well-trained
lapidarists that can offer the same quality
as cutting houses abroad. Sadly, in Ethiopia
this is not yet the case. If governments try
and do it too early, then the poor quality
cutting actually lowers the value of the
gem and everyone loses out. I explained
to Yonus that three years ago, I worked
with the Pakistan government and took 20
female lapidarists to Jaipur and for one year
we trained them to cut beautiful gemstones.
Now they are back in Pakistan cutting to
a fantastic standard that we are more than
happy to import. We truly want to support
cutting at source where there are sufficient
gemstones to warrant the investment. Our
vision would be that our own cutting houses
only cut gems that are from places where
the quantity is so small that it's not feasible
to cut locally. As we finished our meeting,
Yonus showed me some examples of the
local Aquamarine and Ruby and whilst they
were opaque, I felt they would look really
nice in the Sarah Bennett collection and he
agreed to send us some samples.
It was an amazing adventure. The people of
Wegeltena were a delight to spend time with
and I will never forget the trek to the mine,
the faces of the gem miners as we launched
our drone, or the wonderful stories the
miners shared with us on that very high and
spiritual rock face.
SEE OUR GORGEOUS ETHIOPIAN OPALS HERE